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Book fieldguides for a preternaturalist History and Heritage storytelling

An Archive of the Ordinary

Our homes provide us with a cultural context that challenges ideas of how the oppressed lived. Like photographs, objects hold cultural memory, they connect us to each other and help us to tell our stories, as well as to remember the past and situate it in the present. I imagine the threads of my grandmother’s scarves and doilies wrapping themselves around the stalks and branches of the tumbleweed, a network of women’s histories, community memories and ways of healing concealed in its centre, patiently waiting for the right time to be resurrected. The simple objects are imbued with history, language and memory and hold the imprint of human touch and experience. They speak to centuries worth of cultural exchange. They beg to be examined more closely and ask us to bear witness to the stories that are contained within their interlaced networks. We dare not underestimate their narrative potential nor the important role they could play in the healing of our communities. The strands of threads and thoughts speak to connections through time and place, traversing oceans and deserts, blurring borders of race and religion. They offer us the opportunity to recognise ourselves in the other and urge us to write a different narrative of who we are and where we come from.

Extract: Fieldguides for a Preternaturalist: No. 1 Unpick, Restitch: Doilies, Medorahs and Labouring Plants

In my work over the last few years, I have been deeply touched by the many people who have felt comfortable sharing their stories with me. Invariably, someone from the audience I was addressing has come up to me afterwards to “just quickly tell me something” that happened to them, to an aunt, a grandmother, or a friend. Since one of my primary motivations to write has been to contribute to the conversations around heritage, identity and belonging, this has been infinitely rewarding. I feel an obligation to honour these stories.

An Archive of the Ordinary was born out of the need to archive and share the stories about objects, images, food, textiles and practices that both acknowledge the pain and trauma of our history and celebrate the humanity of the individuals who lived this history. The food our mothers prepared, the clothes they sewed or knitted, the plants they used to heal, the photographs they kept in biscuit tins, all contain stories of how we lived. An Archive of the Ordinary will provide a digital platform to record these ordinary stories as told by ordinary people and will include short anecdotes in the Gallery section, and longer pieces written for the Stories section. From time to time, in-person events will be held.

My intention is that the website will serve as a record of lived experiences and as an educational resource, and I hope to connect with work being done by others in similar fields. While the main focus of the project will be on South African stories, contributions from further afield will also be included to to inspire and support storytelling around an alternative archive.

An Archive of the Ordinary aims to disrupt the narrative that our stories don’t matter, and that we are a people without history.

Visit An Archive of the Ordinary

Featured Image taken at a talk about the women in my family for Women’s Month at the Simonstown Museum.

 

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fieldguides for a preternaturalist History and Heritage lost narratives storytelling writing

Food as Archive: Kerrievis/Pickled Fish

by Wendy Morris and Nadia Kamies

In Taati Niilenge’s Walvis Bay: Our Story (2024) Nangula Shikujele remembers the 1960s in Kuisebmond when fish were plentiful and fishers returning from sea would bring fish for the entire community. The neighbourhood would smell of fish, Shikujele remembered. She told Niilenge that descendants of the Old Location and early Kuisebmond (to which people were forcibly displaced in the 1950s) were known for their fish cleaning and cooking skills and for the preparation of a favourite dish, ‘Kerrievis’, that they learned from their mothers.

John Miller arrived in 1964 from Cape Town as a young fisherman and lived in Narraville’s ‘Hou jou bek’ vicinity. He remembers that most fisher families came from Cape Town. Prior to the forced displacements of residents from Old Location to either Kuisebmond or Narraville, depending on apartheid racial classification, people from all parts of the country, and from the Cape, lived together and shared culinary traditions.

Kerrievis, or Pickled Fish as it is also known, is a dish that entangles histories of forced migrations and travelling women. Pickling with brine can be traced to Dutch traditions of preserving food and was brought to the Cape of Good Hope in the 17th century by that company of Companies, the Vereenigde Oostindische Compagnie or VOC, the company that traded people and political instability, spices and social death, extractions and executions.

The spices that make the kerrievis dish – turmeric, coriander, bay leaves, cumin, cinnamon, all spice and cloves – come from south-east Asia, and especially Indonesia, and their acquisition was at the very heart of the VOC enterprise. The women who knew and used these spices, and developed the dish as a pickled and curried fusion in the kitchens of the Cape colony in the 17th and 18th centuries, were enslaved women who had been trafficked across the Indian ocean by the VOC. It was generations of these women and their descendants who made this dish their own.

In a previous article on this website, An Archive of Food, (2020) I relate how both my Cape Town grandmothers (one Christian, one Muslim) prepared this dish. The process would start the week before Good Friday since there would be no fishing boats going out over the Easter weekend. Yellowtail, kabeljou or hake would have to be bought in advance, either from the market in Hanover Street, from the fish vendor who would sell his wares from the back of his bakkie (blowing his horn to alert the neighbourhood), or straight off the fishing boats at the harbour.

Enough fish was pickled to last all weekend. Making the dish in advance meant that the fish was able to absorb all the spices and the taste improved as the weekend progressed! This freed up time for my maternal grandmother to go to the long church services held over Easter weekend, since she didn’t have to cook. Abstaining from eating meat on Good Friday was also in keeping with many Christian traditions. Muslim families would take advantage of the time to go on picnics, usually to visit kramats, with an ample supply of pickled fish and bread as padkos. There were no restaurants to stop at along the way since they would all have been designated “for whites only”. Well-preserved with vinegar and spices and eaten cold, pickled fish was the perfect road food. Coming across this tradition in Walvis Bay, Namibia, speaks to the interconnectedness of its history with Cape Town. Walvis Bay became part of the British Cape Colony in 1878 and would be under South African control until 1994. Ruth Smith whose family came to Walvis Bay when she was a child (Walvis Bay: Our Story), also recalls that most fishermen came from South Africa. They would go out on small wooden boats or worked as supervisors in the fishing factories.

This dish that has its roots in the Cape, speaks not only to the porousness of borders but also to shared histories of migration, colonialism, apartheid and forced practices. It is no coincidence that as I join Wendy on her journey of return, we should find commonality through a shared practice such as this. As we shopped for ingredients in Lüderitz, stitched aprons with fabric bought from a shop in Walvis Bay, and filmed ourselves, now in the village of Aus, preparing the spicy onion-rich pickling sauce from traditional recipes, we bore witness to another practice of freedom that reinforces the humanity of the oppressed in defiance of the attempts to erase their history.

Aus, Namibia